Backpacker loop by tourist bus: Kathmandu, Bandipur, Pokhara and Chitwan
11 days, 10 nights: Kathmandu (3N), Bandipur (1N), Pokhara (3N), Chitwan (3N) + Patan day trip. Best time to go: Oct–Apr.
Day 1: Arrive in Kathmandu
Kathmandu
- Boudhanath Stupa evening kora · 2 h. Join the clockwise kora at dusk when pilgrims light butter lamps; rooftop cafés overlook the dome. Foreigner entry about NPR 400.
- Thamel and Asan bazaar walk · 2 h. Walk from Thamel via Kathesimbhu Stupa to Asan and Indra Chowk; spice, bead and brass stalls. Bargain politely for souvenirs and trekking gear.
Local tip: Join the clockwise kora at dusk when pilgrims light butter lamps; rooftop cafés overlook the dome. Foreigner entry about NPR 400.
Day 2: Explore Kathmandu
Kathmandu
- Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple) · 1.5 h. About 365 steps up the east side; the west car park is easier. Walk clockwise around the stupa and keep food out of sight of the monkeys.
- Kathmandu Durbar Square & Kumari Ghar · 2 h. Foreigner ticket about NPR 1,000; ask at the office for a pass if you will come back. The Kumari sometimes appears at her window — photos of her are not allowed.
- Newari dinner with a cultural dance show · 2.5 h. Several restaurants in Thamel and Durbar Marg serve multi-course Newari sets with masked and folk dances.
- Narayanhiti Palace Museum · 1.5 h. The former royal palace, including the site of the 2001 massacre. Phones and cameras go in lockers at the gate; check opening days locally.
Local tip: About 365 steps up the east side; the west car park is easier. Walk clockwise around the stupa and keep food out of sight of the monkeys.
Day 3: Patan Durbar Square, Patan Museum & Golden Temple
Kathmandu
- Patan Durbar Square, Patan Museum & Golden Temple · 5 h. Foreigner ticket about NPR 1,000 for the square; check at the counter whether Patan Museum is included. The Golden Temple (Hiranya Varna Mahavihar) has a small separate fee — shoes and leather items off inside.
Local tip: Foreigner ticket about NPR 1,000 for the square; check at the counter whether Patan Museum is included. The Golden Temple (Hiranya Varna Mahavihar) has a small separate fee — shoes and leather items off inside.
Day 4: Kathmandu → Bandipur
Bandipur · Kathmandu to Bandipur, Tourist bus to Dumre ~4.5h + 20 min jeep up (private car ~4.5–5h)
- Bandipur old bazaar walk · 1.5 h. The main street is car-free; 18th-century Newari trading houses, temples and cafés. Evenings are quiet after day-trippers leave.
- Thani Mai Temple sunrise hike · 1.5 h. A 30-min climb above town; the best panorama in Bandipur.
Local tip: The main street is car-free; 18th-century Newari trading houses, temples and cafés. Evenings are quiet after day-trippers leave.
Day 5: Bandipur → Pokhara
Pokhara · Bandipur to Pokhara, Tourist bus to Dumre + jeep ~2.5–3h (private car ~2.5h)
- Phewa Lake boating & Tal Barahi Temple · 1.5 h. Rowing boats are hired by the hour from Lakeside (roughly NPR 700–1,000 per boat). Mornings are calmest, with Machapuchare reflected on clear days; life jackets are provided.
- Sarangkot sunrise · 3 h. Taxi up at about 5am, then a short walk to the viewpoint (small entry fee). Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and Machapuchare are clearest Oct–Feb.
Local tip: Rowing boats are hired by the hour from Lakeside (roughly NPR 700–1,000 per boat). Mornings are calmest, with Machapuchare reflected on clear days; life jackets are provided.
Day 6: Explore Pokhara
Pokhara
- World Peace Pagoda (Shanti Stupa) · 3 h. Boat across Phewa and climb about 45 min, or drive most of the way. Late afternoon gives lake and mountain views at sunset.
- Davis Falls & Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave · 2 h. Opposite each other near the airport road; the falls are fullest Jul–Oct and the cave steps are wet and slippery.
- International Mountain Museum · 2 h. Mountaineering history and Himalayan cultures; good on a cloudy afternoon.
Local tip: Boat across Phewa and climb about 45 min, or drive most of the way. Late afternoon gives lake and mountain views at sunset.
Day 7: Explore Pokhara
Pokhara
- Tashi Palkhel Tibetan settlement & monastery · 1.5 h. North of town at Hemja; morning prayers at the monastery and carpet weaving nearby.
- Lakeside evening walk and dinner · 2 h
- Tandem paragliding from Sarangkot · 3 h. 20–30 min flights landing at Phewa Lake, about US$80–100 plus photos. Pick an established operator; flights stop in strong wind and monsoon rain.
- Ultralight flight over the Annapurnas · 1.5 h. 15–60 min flights from Pokhara airport early on clear mornings, mainly Oct–Mar. Book a day ahead and keep a spare morning.
Local tip: North of town at Hemja; morning prayers at the monastery and carpet weaving nearby.
Day 8: Pokhara → Chitwan
Chitwan · Pokhara to Chitwan, Tourist bus ~5h (private car ~4.5h)
- Dugout canoe on the Rapti River · 1.5 h. Mugger crocodiles, gharials and kingfishers at dawn; usually combined with a short guided walk back. Price includes the park fee.
- Tharu cultural dance show · 1.5 h. Nightly in Sauraha's cultural houses; the stick dance is the finale.
Local tip: Mugger crocodiles, gharials and kingfishers at dawn; usually combined with a short guided walk back. Price includes the park fee.
Day 9: Explore Chitwan
Chitwan
- Elephant breeding centre (no riding) · 2 h. About 4 km from Sauraha by bicycle or jeep; calves stay with their mothers. Elephant rides and bathing are widely criticised on welfare grounds — choose jeep, canoe or walking options instead.
- Guided jungle walk · 4 h. Walk only with two licensed naturalists and listen to the briefing on rhino and elephant encounters; wear muted colours.
- Rapti riverbank sunset · 1.5 h. Sauraha's riverside bars face the park; rhinos sometimes cross at dusk — keep your distance.
Local tip: About 4 km from Sauraha by bicycle or jeep; calves stay with their mothers. Elephant rides and bathing are widely criticised on welfare grounds — choose jeep, canoe or walking options instead.
Day 10: Explore Chitwan
Chitwan
- Tharu village bicycle tour · 3 h. Mud-walled houses, rice fields and a small Tharu museum; ask before photographing people at home.
- Chitwan jeep safari (half day) · 4 h. Price includes the foreigner park fee (about NPR 2,000 per day) and a shared jeep. One-horned rhinos and deer are common; tigers and sloth bears are rare. Feb–May, after the grass is cut, gives the clearest views.
Local tip: Mud-walled houses, rice fields and a small Tharu museum; ask before photographing people at home.
Day 11: Depart from Chitwan
Chitwan
Keep a buffer before your flight; check-out is usually noon.
Where to stay
- Kathmandu (3 nights): Thamel edges and Lazimpat. Quieter streets with gardens, 10 min from Thamel and the Garden of Dreams.
- Bandipur (1 night): Restored Newari houses in the bazaar. Wooden balconies over the street and valley views at the back.
- Pokhara (3 nights): Lakeside hotels. Lake or mountain views, pools at some, restaurants on the doorstep.
- Chitwan (3 nights): Sauraha riverside resorts. Pools and views over the Rapti into the park.